Colour, pilgrimage and the Indian Himalaya.
Two quite different trips share one border. In the north the Indian Himalaya gives you Ladakh, Sikkim and the Darjeeling hills, with trekking that feels close to Nepal's but with far fewer boots on the trail. Further south the draw is pilgrimage and colour, the Ganges towns, the forts of Rajasthan, and Holi in March, which is worth building a trip around on its own.
An e-Visa applied for online, approved by email in two to five days, and stamped into your passport on arrival. It is genuinely straightforward and it is also strictly enforced: the e-Visa is tied to a list of approved airports and land crossings, and arriving anywhere else with one does not work.
| Visa | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 30-day e-Tourist, April to June arrival | USD 10 | The low-season rate. It is the cheapest way into India and almost nobody knows it exists. |
| 30-day e-Tourist, July to March arrival | USD 25 | - |
| 1-year e-Tourist, multiple entry | USD 40 | Reduced from USD 80. Maximum 180 days in the year. |
| 5-year e-Tourist, multiple entry | USD 80 | Maximum 180 days a year. Some nationalities now pay considerably more; check your own before assuming. |
| Bank charge | About 2.5 to 3% on top | Added at the payment page and not refundable if the application fails. |
| If you hold | What applies |
|---|---|
| Most Western passports | e-Visa online, at the fees above. Apply at least four days before you fly and up to 120 days ahead. |
| Nepali and Bhutanese nationals | No visa required for entry by land or air, under longstanding bilateral arrangements. |
| Pakistani nationals and people of Pakistani origin | Not eligible for the e-Visa at all. A regular visa from an Indian mission is the only route. |
| Anyone who has held an Indian passport | Renouncing Indian citizenship requires a surrender certificate before a visa is issued. This catches out people of Indian origin every year and it cannot be fixed at the airport. |
| Diplomatic and official passports | Not eligible for the e-Visa. A regular visa from an Indian mission. |
indianvisaonline.gov.in is the only official portal. There is an entire industry of agency sites that charge three or four times the fee to fill in the same form, and they rank well in search. If a site is asking USD 120 for a 30-day tourist visa, you are on one of them.
A plain white background, square crop, face filling most of the frame, no glasses. More e-Visa applications are rejected on the photograph than on anything else. Take it against a white wall on a phone rather than scanning a passport picture.
You receive an Electronic Travel Authorisation by email. Print it. Airlines at check-in ask for it on paper more often than they should, and the immigration counter at Delhi stamps against it.
The e-Visa is valid at 36 airports, 38 seaports and 12 land crossings, and the land list includes the Nepal border posts at Raxaul and Sunauli. Arriving overland anywhere not on the list with an e-Visa means being turned back.
What catches people out
| When | What it is like | |
|---|---|---|
| October to March | Best | The season for the north: Delhi, Rajasthan, Agra and Varanasi are clear and cool. December and January are genuinely cold and foggy in the morning, which delays flights and trains. |
| March | Best | Holi, and the reason to build a trip around a single date. Warm rather than hot, and the last comfortable month in Rajasthan. |
| April to June | Hard | The plains reach 45°C. It is also when the 30-day e-Visa costs USD 10 and when the Himalayan north, Ladakh and Sikkim, is at its best. |
| July to September | Hard | Monsoon. Kerala and the Western Ghats are wonderful in it; the Golden Triangle is humid and the Himalaya is landsliding. |
Indira Gandhi International has the widest choice of long-haul routes in South Asia and it is ninety minutes from Kathmandu, four hours from the Taj Mahal and an easy connection to Varanasi. Every India and Nepal itinerary we run starts or ends there for those reasons and not for any other.
Delhi to Kathmandu is one hour forty-five minutes on Nepal Airlines, IndiGo or Air India, several times a day. Varanasi to Kathmandu is a shorter hop and is the one that makes a Ganges-then-Himalaya itinerary work without doubling back. Kolkata to Kathmandu is the third option and the least frequent.
Sunauli, near Bhairahawa, is the crossing for Varanasi and Lucknow. Raxaul, near Birgunj, is the one for Patna and Bodhgaya. Kakarbhitta in the east serves Darjeeling and Siliguri. All three are open daily, all three issue Nepali visas on arrival, and all three take considerably longer than the map suggests. Budget a full day and do not book anything for the evening.
Non-stop routes only. Anything with a connection depends on the day and is better answered by a search than by a table.
| From | Airlines | In the air | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| London | British Airways, Virgin Atlantic, Air India | 8h 30m | Non-stop to Delhi |
| New York | Air India, United | 14h 30m | Non-stop to Delhi |
| Frankfurt | Lufthansa, Air India | 7h 45m | - |
| Dubai | Emirates, IndiGo, Air India Express | 3h 30m | The densest short-haul link into India |
| Singapore | Singapore Airlines, IndiGo, Air India | 5h 30m | - |
| Kathmandu | Nepal Airlines, IndiGo, Air India | 1h 45m | To Delhi. Several a day |
| Paro | Drukair, Bhutan Airlines | 1h 45m | To Delhi, around five a week |
| Getting around inside | Airlines | In the air | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Delhi to Varanasi | IndiGo, Air India, Akasa | 1h 25m | The alternative to an overnight train |
| Delhi to Leh | IndiGo, Air India, SpiceJet | 1h 20m | Morning only. Leh is at 3,500 m and needs two days of doing nothing |
| Delhi to Bagdogra | IndiGo, Air India | 2h | For Darjeeling, Sikkim and the land route into Bhutan |
| Delhi to Jaipur | IndiGo, Air India | 1h | Usually driven in five hours instead, because the road is the point |
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| On to | How | How long | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nepal | Fly Delhi, Varanasi or Kolkata to Kathmandu, or cross by land at Sunauli, Raxaul or Kakarbhitta | 1h 20m to 1h 45m flying, a full day by road | - |
| Bhutan | Fly Delhi, Kolkata or Bagdogra to Paro, or drive in at Phuentsholing | 1h to 1h 45m flying | Indian nationals need a permit rather than a visa, issued on arrival |
| Tibet | Not directly. Via Kathmandu, or via mainland China | Two flights | There is no tourist land crossing from India into Tibet |